Chacarita: the barrio Buenos Aires actually goes to.

For decades, Chacarita appeared on exactly one tourist itinerary: the cemetery. That has changed fast. The barrio now turns up on international lists of the world’s coolest neighbourhoods, and the shift is easy to see on the ground — specialty coffee roasters, small boutiques and chefs opening their second or third project here rather than in Palermo.

What makes it work is that the change hasn’t erased the place. Chacarita is still a largely working-class, residential barrio with a huge cemetery and a major transport hub at its centre. It can’t gentrify completely, and that tension is exactly what people come for.

Where it is

Chacarita sits in the north-central part of the city, wedged between Colegiales, Palermo Hollywood, Villa Crespo, La Paternal and Villa Ortúzar. That position is the whole point: you are ten minutes from Palermo’s restaurants without Palermo’s queues or prices.

Getting here is simple. Subte Line B runs to Federico Lacroze, which is also a mainline train station and a major bus interchange. From the centre it’s about twenty minutes.

What to see

Cementerio de la Chacarita. The largest cemetery in Argentina, at 95 hectares — roughly twenty times the size of Recoleta’s. It was created for victims of the 1870s yellow fever epidemic. Where Recoleta holds the aristocracy, Chacarita holds the artists: musicians, writers and cultural figures, including Carlos Gardel and Juan Perón. It is architecturally extraordinary and, unlike Recoleta, almost empty of tour groups.

Parque Los Andes. Opened in 1941, the barrio’s main green space and the best place to see local life on a Sunday.

Movistar Arena. The city’s main indoor concert venue is here, which shapes the neighbourhood’s evenings — on show nights the bars and cafés around it fill up early.

The Sunday market around Parque Los Andes, near Corrientes and Dorrego: second-hand clothes, old tools, tea sets. Haggling expected.

The coffee

Chacarita and neighbouring Villa Crespo are where several of the city’s most important coffee roasters set up, and the barrio has become the go-to for people who want to sit and work rather than be seen. Names worth knowing: Cuervo Café on Guevara, La Kitchen, Malcriada, Rayuela and Café Cortázar.

Ours is SĀNTAL Chacarita, at Loyola 1599, a few steps from Movistar Arena. We open at 7:30 — early by Buenos Aires standards, where most cafés don’t start until 9 — and close at 20:30. The brunch menu runs all day, so there is no “kitchen closed” gap in the afternoon. WiFi, power outlets, and pet friendly.

For the wider picture, we keep guides to the best cafés in Chacarita, Colegiales and Belgrano.

A day in Chacarita

8:00 — Breakfast. Argentina’s breakfast is famously light. Order medialunas — small, sweet, glazed croissants — with a flat white, or go bigger with avo toast.

10:00 — The cemetery. Go in the morning while it’s cool. Allow at least an hour; it’s enormous.

12:30 — Lunch. Chacarita’s restaurant scene is the reason locals come. Book ahead on Friday and Saturday nights.

15:00 — Walk to Colegiales. The neighbouring barrio is the city’s official audiovisual district, all converted silos and cobbled streets. The café scene there is quieter and very good.

18:00 — Tapas and wine. Happy hour runs daily from 16:00 to 20:00, with 2-for-1 on wine and cocktails. Note that dinner in Buenos Aires rarely starts before 21:00.

Practical notes for visitors

Safety. Chacarita is a quiet, residential barrio. Normal city awareness applies — keep valuables out of sight, particularly around the transport hub at night.

Cash and cards. Cards are widely accepted in cafés and restaurants. Argentina’s pricing changes quickly, so check current menus rather than older blog posts.

Timing. Argentines eat late. Lunch is 13:00–15:00, dinner from 21:00. Cafés opening at 7:30 are the exception, not the rule.

Language. Less English is spoken here than in Palermo — part of the appeal, but worth knowing.

Staying longer? If you’re working remotely, the barrio is well set up for it: cafés open all day with reliable WiFi are easy to find.

FAQ

Is Chacarita worth visiting in Buenos Aires?

Yes. It has become one of the city’s most interesting barrios for food and coffee, while staying residential and far less crowded than Palermo. The cemetery alone justifies the trip, and it is ten minutes from Palermo Hollywood.

How do I get to Chacarita?

Subte Line B to Federico Lacroze, which is also a mainline train station and major bus interchange. It is roughly twenty minutes from the city centre.

Can you visit the Chacarita cemetery?

Yes, it is open to the public and free. At 95 hectares it is the largest in Argentina — about twenty times the size of Recoleta — and holds the graves of Carlos Gardel and Juan Perón. Allow at least an hour.

Where can I find specialty coffee in Chacarita?

The barrio is one of the city’s coffee centres. Cuervo Café, La Kitchen, Malcriada and Rayuela are all worth a stop. SĀNTAL Chacarita (Loyola 1599) opens at 7:30, unusually early for Buenos Aires, and serves brunch all day.

Is Chacarita safe for tourists?

It is a quiet residential neighbourhood and generally safe during the day. Apply standard city precautions, especially around the Federico Lacroze transport hub after dark.

You might also like